EVERY MORNING FOR BREAKFAST, I make myself 7-grain cereal and add flax, cranberries, and pine nuts to it. I have it with soy vanilla—doesn’t it sound horrible? [laughs] It’s actually pretty good! And I have a very, very, very strong espresso drink.
THEN I DRIVE TO NEWPORT. I’m usually there about 9 in the morning. I unload my car; my arms are just laden with projects. I come in the back door, so the first people I see are my prep cooks, who are usually very jolly in the morning. After about an hour, I get together with chef Octavio Flores—he’s our head chef. We go through the paperwork. We go through the orders. We look at whatever’s going on. We’ve been doing tequila dinners and planning my book launch party right now. We just kind of review the day.
I GO INTO THE WALK-IN AND STAND AND STARE FOR AWHILE. It’s a meditative process: looking at the shelves [laughs], seeing what’s there, what everything looks like, and the general condition of everything. Every chef starts their day in the walk-in.
I’LL BE ON THE EXPO LINE FOR LUNCH, which mostly just means standing there, watching food come up, and talking to the waiters. There’s usually a meeting in the afternoon, more cooking, and then I’ll expo in the evening. We have an open kitchen, which is fabulous. It’s a place where people can sit up and kind of watch. It’s really fun to just watch the food go out, watch the cooks work, and chill with the waiters.
THEN IT’S 9ISH AT NIGHT. I’ll get back in my car and I drive back to San Diego.
I’M ADDICTED TO BOOKS ON TAPE. I’m working my way through Hemingway now. I find that I’m listening to a lot of the classics. I’m doing my whole college reading list; I did all of Jane Austen. I’ve been listening to Wuthering Heights. It’s wonderful to be read to, especially when it’s 19th century English—it’s just like Masterpiece Theatre in my car.
WRITING IS HARD. I have to chain myself, literally, to my chair to get anything done. I’m a doer, not a sitter. I like writing, I love writing, and I have to write, but it’s way harder than anything else I’ve ever done.
I SPEND A LOT OF TIME IN TIJUANA. It’s literally 20 minutes from my door. It’s very convenient. I love Tijuana. I love it because it’s ugly and gritty and nasty. It’s got great music, great art, and fantastic restaurants—it really speaks to me.
I WANT TO GET AWAY FROM SOMBREROS AND MOLCAJETES and take people to a real Mexican city, with real Mexicans and what people really eat. They tell a lot with food down there. People don’t realize how vibrant and fresh Mexican food really is, and how innovative people can be down there. The book shows people the fun, light-hearted side of Mexican food—the street stuff.
WHEN I WRITE, I LISTEN TO OPERA—opera or anything in a foreign language, so that all I’m hearing is the music and I’m not focusing on the words.
WHEN I GET WRITER’S BLOCK, I take the dog for a walk. I talk on the phone. If I’m really desperate, I’ll knit.
ALL WRITERS ARE BLOCKED ALL THE TIME and if they tell you differently they’re lying.
I’LL BE WORKING ON ONE THING, and I’ll think about something else and I’ll make a note about it. Then I’ll go back and I’ll try that recipe, and I’ll cook it for the first time. Then I go write it. Then I go back and cook it at least one or two more times; so it’s a process.
THE BOOK CAME TOGETHER SO BEAUTIFULLY. It’s brilliant, perfect. It’s informal, but colorful, but fun, but not kitschy. That’s what Mexico is. When you go down and drive around TJ and see a turquoise wall and an orange wall, or a yellow wall, or a purple wall, and all these wild signs everywhere, it’s fun. It’s so not Orange County.
I’M DOING WHAT I ABSOLUTELY LOVE TO DO. I’m so lucky.
I THINK IF I DIDN’T COOK, I’D PROBABLY WORK IN AN EMERGENCY ROOM. It’s a different thing because you’re savings lives, but you never know what the day’s going to bring you. At the end of the day, you feel like you’ve done something, which I like. I hate office work. I hate it. I hate it. I hate it. I hate it.
I REALLY COOK BY FEEL, unless I’m writing a recipe, in which case I cook with exact measurements.
I HAD THE CONTRACT TO WRITE THE BOOK at the same time we were working on the concepts for the restaurant. I would say half of the book recipes are not things we’re doing at SOL Cocina right now because they’re not really restaurant recipes, they’re homestyle recipes, but I imagine everything’s going to find its way onto the menu eventually. They grew together.
MY PARTNERS, Matt Baumayr and Rich Howland, and I were looking all the way from Chula Vista to Manhattan Beach for locations. We knew that we wanted a coastal setting to launch SOL and we were pretty specific about what we wanted. Richard’s very experienced; he’s done a lot of restaurant locations over the years (RA Sushi, Benihana). We found this spot on the marina in Newport Beach, and we looked at each other and we were like ‘this is unbelievable!’ It’s perfect. Our foundations are very organic in Baja. It’s all about stones and water and sky. It’s all about Southern California really, and to get that setting is just amazing.
I LOVE HOW [OC] PEOPLE ARE REALLY OPEN-MINDED, adventurous, and willing to try a different kind of Mexican, which is what SOL Cocina is. San Diego is not so great about supporting restaurants. They tend to be pretty conservative down there. There’s a small group of foodies; but boy, OC is full of them.
THE BEST THING I’VE EVER EATEN…well, I’m addicted to the Taco Vampiro (see recipe right). It’s like a supertaco. It’s fabulous. I eat one of those everyday. It’s like a vitamin pill.
SOMEBODY TOLD ME A LONG TIME AGO, “Suit up. Show up. Shut up. And do your best.” I love that.
BEST COOKING TIP? Cook for yourself and they will follow.
With over 25 years of professional culinary experience, and a James Beard Award nomination (“the Oscars of the food world”) under her belt, Deborah Schneider knows her way around the kitchen. Today, she is Executive Chef at the Baja-inspired restaurant SOL Cocina in Newport Beach, CA. She recently published her third cookbook Amor y Tacos, a fresh take on modern Mexican cuisine. From her breakfast of champions, to her commute home to San Diego, this is A Day In The Life of Chef Deborah Schneider.
{ INTERVIEW BY SARA WILKINS }
Deborah Schneider’s recent book
Amor Y Tacos
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Makes 12 very substantial tacos.
Why vampiro? Maybe because this taco deserves to be immortal—or because it has a steak through its heart?
• 1 lb well-marbled flap meat or skirt steak
• 24 fresh corn tortillas
• Carne asada marinade (recipe below)
• 4 ounces grated Jack or Oaxaca cheese
• 4 serrano chiles, thinly sliced
• 4 green onions, thinly sliced
• Guacamole (recipe below)
• Pico de gallo (recipe below)
• Chipotle salsa (recipe below)
• ½ cup crumbled cotixa cheese
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•Cilantro sprigs
1. Cut the meat into 6 pieces and toss with the marinade. Refrigerate and let marinate for several hours or overnight. Grill the meat over a hot fire until it is done to your liking; be sure to let one side char. Rest the meat for 10 minutes, then cut it into small dice and keep it warm under aluminum foil.
2. Heat an ungreased heavy griddle or comal. Lay out 6 tortillas and sprinkle the cheese on top. Scatter serrano chiles and green onions over the Jack cheese, then cover each with a second tortilla. Cook on both sides until the cheese is melted.
3. To assemble the tacos, put 1 tablespoon of guacamole on top of each hot quesadilla. Layer on 2 tablespoons of carne asada and top with a spoonful each of pico de gallo and chipotle salsa. Sprinkle over 1 teaspoon grated cotixa cheese and top with a couple of cilantro sprigs. Roll the taco around the filling and secure it with a toothpick. Eat overa plate so you don’t lose anything.
Carne Asada Marinade
Makes enough marinade for about1 pound of meat.
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• ½ teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
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•1 teaspoon soy sauce
Combine all ingredients in a small bowl.
Pico de Gallo
(Fresh Tomato Salsa)
Makes 2 1/2 cups
• 4 large, ripe Roma tomatoes, cored, seeded, and diced small (about 2 cups)
• 1⁄2 cup finely diced white onion
• 1⁄2 medium serrano chile, minced
• 1⁄2 cup loosely packed, roughly chopped cilantro leaves
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
• 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste
Combine all the ingredients 1 hour before serving. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or lime juice as needed. This salsa is good for 24 hours, refrigerated, but may need to be drained and reseasoned.
Chipotle Salsa
Makes about 1⁄2 cup.
Mayonesa-based salsas of all kinds have become increasingly popular at taco stands, adding richness and creamy flavor to otherwise simple tacos. The most common is the lime-sparkled mayonesa so essential to the taste of the real fish taco. You will find many uses for this smoky chipotle version. Chipotles are ripe jalapeños that have been slowly dried over wood smoke. They may be purchased whole, ground, or canned in adobo—that is, reconstituted with tomato sauce, vinegar, and a touch of sweetness.
• 1⁄2 cup mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped chipotles in adobo
• 1 teaspoon fresh-squeezed lime juice, or to taste
• 1 teaspoon water (optional, see note)
Stir together all the ingredients in a small bowl. The sauce keeps, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
Note: If you plan to serve the sauce from a squeeze bottle, which can be convenient, puree the sauce in a blender and add 1 teaspoon water to thin it.
Variation: Add 1 or 2 cloves fresh peeled garlic, finely minced. Refrigerate until needed.
Guacamole con Frutas
(Guacamole with Fruit)
Serves 6.
• 2 ripe Hass avocados
• 1 tablespoon fresh-squeezed lime juice (about 1 lime)
• 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1⁄4 cup finely diced white onion
• 1⁄4 cup chopped cilantro
• 1 serrano chile, minced (optional)
• 2 tablespoons cored and seeded
• Roma tomato, diced
• 2 tablespoons peeled ripe mango, cut into small dice
• 1 teaspoon blanco tequila
• 1 teaspoon lime juice
• 1 tablespoon goat cheese, crumbled
• 1 tablespoon pomegranate seeds
Garnish: cilantro sprig, fresh tostadas (page 85 in the book), lime wedges
1. Split, pit, and mash the avocado flesh with the lime juice and salt, using a potato masher, fork, or a whisk in an up and down motion—never a blender or food processor. Stir in the onion, cilantro, serrano, and tomato. Place in a serving dish.
2. Toss the mango with the tequila and lime juice.
3. Arrange the mango, goat cheese, and pomegranate seed in neat rows on top of the mashed avocado. Set a cilantro sprig on top and serve with fresh tostadas and limes. At the table, stir the ingredients into the guacamole and enjoy.
Variation: If fresh pomegranates are not available, substitute toasted pine nuts.
Check out all of Deb’s cookbooks @ www.ChefDebCooks.com. Learn more about Deb’s restaurant @ www.SolCocina.com .
Hibiscus Syrup
Makes about 3 1⁄2 cups.
Use this syrup as a base for drinks or freeze it into a delicious sorbet.
• 4 cups water
• 2 cups white sugar
• 2 cups dried hibiscus flower (jamaica)
1. Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over low heat until the sugar is dissolved, stirring often. Cook at a slow simmer for 30 minutes.
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2.Let stand for 2 hours (or as long as overnight), then strain into a storage jar, pressing down on the flowers. Keeps indefinitely refrigerated.
Pineapple Serrano Margarita
Makes 1 margarita.
A terrific and unique margarita, sweet and spicy with fragrant pineapple and fiery serrano chiles. Don’t strain this one—pour the crushed fruit and chiles over the ice allowing the flavors to continue to meld. The drink will get spicier toward the end, as the heat from the serrano escalates, but it will be balanced by the bits of pineapple. You’ll eat every bit.
• 3 chunks ripe, fresh pineapple or canned in juice
• 2 slices serrano chile
• Ice cubes
• 11⁄2 ounces 100 percent agave blanco tequila
• 1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice
• 2 ounces simple syrup (recipe below)
Garnish: unpeeled pineapple wedge
In a 10-ounce rocks glass, crush the pineapple and chiles together with a muddler. Fill the glass with ice and pour in the tequila, lime juice, and syrup. Stir with a long-handled spoon. Cut a slit in the pineapple wedge and slide it onto the rim of the glass.
Simple Syrup
• 2 cups water
• 2 cups granulated cane sugar, preferably superfine or bartender’s sugar
Whisk sugar and water together in a small, heavy pan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for about 5 minutes, whisking occasionally, until the sugar is completely dissolved.
Note: Regular granulated sugar may be substituted for the superfine. It will just take a little longer to dissolve completely.
For a list of variations, pick up a copy of Deb’s cookbook!
HIBISCUS MARGARITA
Makes 1 drink.
This is a perfectly beautiful drink, made with or without alcohol. Mexican aguas frescas are drinks made of fresh fruit and water, sweetened and sparked with a squeeze of fresh lime—the perfect drink on a hot day, and healthy as well. Dried hibiscus flowers (jamaica in Spanish) make a hot-pink agua fresca with an excitingly tart, fruity flavor. Dried jamaica is sold in bulk at Mexican markets.
• 1 tablespoon white sugar
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• Lime wedge
• Ice cubes
• 4 ounces hibiscus syrup (recipe below)
• 11⁄2 ounces 100 percent agave blanco tequila
• 1 ounce sparkling water
Garnish: lime wedge or cinnamon stick
1. Combine the sugar and cinnamon on a small plate. Moisten the rim of the glass with the lime wedge, dip the glass in the cinnamon sugar, and shake off the excess.
2. Fill a 12-ounce glass with ice and pour in the tequila and hibiscus syrup. Top up with sparkling water. Stir carefully. Squeeze the juice from the lime wedge you used to prepare the glass rim on top of the drink and discard the wedge. Garnish with a fresh wedge of lime or a cinnamon stick.
VARIATION: Chill a 7-ounce martini glass and prepare the rim as described. In a shaker jar, combine the ice, hibiscus syrup and tequila, along with 1 tablespoon Cointreau or Grand Marnier. Cover tightly, shake well for 15 seconds, and strain into the glass. Garnish with a thin slice of lime.
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Photo by Blythe Hill
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